Time for new calipers.

[kcg795]

I've been noticing a squeak when I've been driving and it'd get worse when I apply the brakes. Thought maybe the pads were down to the indicator. So I jacked it up and pulled the wheel off and checked the indicator. It's still got a little ways to go. Then I try to rotate the rotor by hand and it wouldn't budge. Ok, so maybe the slide pins need to be cleaned up and relubed. So I removed the bottom caliper bolt and pried and pulled and tugged and finally got the caliper to lift up. That was then I noticed the dust boot around the caliper piston was torn. I also had a hell of a time trying to get it off the top caliper pin. Yeah, the caliper pins are bone dry and sticky. So, I may either take the calipers in to get rebuilt or just buy new calipers. Oh, and that squeak was one of the little metal anti-rattle pieces. It was touching the rotor and applying the brakes would move it closer to the rotor. So, looks like I got another project lined up.

Here's the pictures so far. Might as will replace the pads too since they're cheap anyway.

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/20130218_140736.jpg

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/20130218_145024.jpg

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/20130218_144750.jpg

Edit: I just tried to push the piston back in with one of those "squeeze" clamps and it wouldn't budge. I know when I did my brakes on my Cobalt, I was able to push the piston in by hand. So, looks like it's seized.

[skibum]

It's handy to have an eight-legged helper, eh? :)

I'd agree with you diagnosis, as to seized. That "puck" should push in fairly easy. I usually use a C-clamp, but it's not a major force thing. I just did both sides, on the front of my '87 4x4, for about $250. That was calipers, rotors and pads.

[kcg795]

Yeah, not even gonna bother with rotors. You have to remove the whole damn hub to remove the rotor. If the wheel bearings were going out, then I'd go ahead and replace them and the rotor. But the rotor spins freely without any play. Maybe after payday or when Uncle Sam pays me my refund, I'll go ahead and order both calipers and a set of brake pads.

[skibum]

Yeah, I went a little overboard, doing the rotors, I was kind of showing cost. I think the calipers were around $50 at O'Reilly's, lifetime warranty. I had a little "shake" when braking, so I did the rotors. My bearings were fine, but they did get repacked, since I was there.

I usually just do pads when needed, and less often replace the caliper(s), again when needed, but I figure the rotor replacement will keep me in good shape for a long time.

[kcg795]

O'Reilly has them for $34.99 each plus core. I'm also gonna invest in a vacuum brake bleeder. I've been needing to bleed the brakes on my Cobalt, but I can't get any help to do it. I might as will get a tool that will allow me to do it by myself.

[kcg795]

Damn, that was fast. Ordered my calipers and brake pads yesterday and they're already here today. Anyway, they all look really good. Nice and shiny. I was only able to get semi-metallic brake pads for it also. I could not find ceramic brake pads on O'Reilly or AutoZone. Oh well. Still, I'm sure it'll stop a hell of a lot better than it used to.

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/20130222_134651.jpg

[skibum]

If you haven't already installed those pads, and really want ceramic, check out Amazon. I searched "1987 Toyota Van ceramic brake pads" (http://www.amazon.com/Performance-770263-Premium-Ceramic-Brake/dp/B004RT50YQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1361644835&sr=8-1&keywords=1987+Toyota+van+ceramic+brake+pads) and successfully got results.

Shiny new parts sure do look good!

[kcg795]

The pads I have now will do just fine. Kinda was hoping this was a simple "regrease the slide pins." Got the driver's side caliper changed out, bled, and working. I backed the Van out and pulled it forward a few times and there's definitely a difference. The driver's side front end used to not sink down so far when hitting the brakes. Now it does. I got the passenger side jacked up now. I'm too tired to mess with it for now. But so far, that caliper is working pretty good. It's not seized like the other one is. It seems to slide ok on the pin too. I checked that pin also and it's starting to get gummed up. Brake cleaner strips that roflroflroflrofl right off too. When I feel like continuing on with the other side, I'll take pictures, video, or whatever. It'll sure be nice to be able to brake hard and not have it jerk to the right. It hasn't done that to me lately, but it did a few years ago. That and the anti-rattle clips rubbing up against the rotor got me curious and I just had to start taking it apart.

[kcg795]

Made some more progress today.

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_134902.jpg

Pinched off the brake line so the fluid doesn't drain out of the system.
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_135318.jpg
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_135457.jpg

Cleaning old grease off the slide pin.
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_135550.jpg

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_135929.jpg

Relube slide pins and the insides.
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_140045.jpg
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_140245.jpg
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_140136.jpg

Remove old anti-rattle clips and install new. Do this for all of them.
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_140734.jpg
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_140753.jpg
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_141008.jpg

Little bit of lube on the ears of the brake pads so they'll slide better and install them.
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_141929.jpg
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_142315.jpg

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_142427.jpg

Rebleed the system, pump the brakes a few times, and keep bleeding 'til all the air is out of the system. Also, the MityVac you get at O'Reilly is JUNK. Don't waste your money on it. Some simple aquarium tubing and a coke bottle and someone to yell at to pump the brakes works MUCH better.
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_142759.jpg

All done.
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/Van%20Brake%20Job/20130225_144136.jpg

I also accidentally ran the master cylinder dry. So I had to run an entire bottle of brake fluid through to get the air I introduced into the system out. Upon doing that, I noticed the brake fluid I flushed through was all milky. So, definitely some moisture in the system. I will make an attempt to return the vacuum pump. I got it all cleaned up and back in it's package. It's just crap. I did the best I could to bleed the brakes and still ended up with spongy brakes on my first test drive. I bled the front brakes again with the coke bottle method and they seem a little better. I will bleed them all soon when I get more brake fluid and get my Dad to help me. The brake fluid I saw come out of there was just nasty. No telling how bad it might be for the rears.

[timsrv]

Thanks for the nice write-up and pictorial KC! I know you worked hard on this and we much appreciate your work here :thmbup:. I realize critiquing your efforts may be offensive, and for that I apologize. But..............for the sake of safety I feel obligated to point out a couple things that worry me. Flexible brake lines should never be pinched, crimped, or clamped. It's brilliant how you protected from the jaws of your vice grips, but most types of flexible brake lines are lined with a semi-ridged material that can be fractured if pinched in this manner. If you're worried about losing brake fluid, a better alternative would be putting some plastic wrap over the reservoir opening and putting the cap back on (blocking the vent in the reservoir cap will prevent flow). Another way is to leave brake lines installed until the very end, then work fast to switch them over. If you're fast and careful you won't lose more than a few drops.

I usually use anti-seize compound on the slider pins (grease is okay too) but only a thin layer. No excess grease should be allowed outside the weather boot though. The weather boot keeps it inside (where it belongs) and should easily last for the life of the pads. Each time pads are replaced these should be cleaned/lubed again. This is the ONLY area that should be lubed on disc brakes. No other places require lube, besides, due to conditions it won't stay for long anyhow. Too much risk of contamination using lube any where else in this vacinity. Tim

[kcg795]

Yeah, I expected some criticism for using vice grips on the brake lines. I did some research and read that people that do this don't have any problems. Eric The Car Guy even pinches the brake line closed, which is where I got the idea of using rubber hose on the grips. Some of the grease was exaggerated in the pictures. I did wipe off the excess. Eric recommends Silicone Paste for the slide pins. I think what I got is silicone based. Doesn't say, but it is synthetic.

[kcg795]

I did take it for a drive on the highway today. Doesn't seem to feel like I have to push the gas harder to maintain speed anymore. I took it up to 75 and rode the brakes as my turn was coming up to help seat the pads in with the rotors. I did a few hard stops as well. Seems to be functional. Still need to bleed the rears. I hope I got all the air out of the master cylinder after I accidentally ran it too low. I've been reading that master cylinders need to be bench bled. But I've been reading you really don't have to. It'll just take longer to bleed it all out when you bleed the system at the wheels.

[Burntboot]

I have never met "Eric" or any of the others that have done this and not had problems, but obviously they have better luck than I do.

Once, when I was young and just starting out, I was told to do just as you did in the pic's.
Afterwards I spent a great deal of time, money and aggro trying to solve my intermittent brake pull,
needless to say the only solution was replacing the rubber lines I had clamped shut.
It was an expensive lesson and one I have never forgotten.

For what it's worth, I have met many "professional wrenches" that do the same thing.
Those same people profess there is no such thing as a "comeback", just "return for more work".

When you do get around to bleeding the rear brakes, don't forget to finish off the job by bleeding the load sensing valve to the rear brakes.
BB

[The Critic]

I usually use anti-seize compound on the slider pins (grease is okay too) but only a thin layer. No excess grease should be allowed outside the weather boot though. The weather boot keeps it inside (where it belongs) and should easily last for the life of the pads. Each time pads are replaced these should be cleaned/lubed again. This is the ONLY area that should be lubed on disc brakes. No other places require lube, besides, due to conditions it won't stay for long anyhow. Too much risk of contamination using lube any where else in this vacinity. Tim
Silicone paste is the best product for slide pins. It seems to last the longest, and GM/Ford both specify it in their service manuals. There are a number of internet rumors saying that the Permatex synthetic and ceramic lubes dry out quickly, but I've never seen this myself.

I use either Motorcraft XG-3-A or 3M #08946. Anti-seize compound should not be used since it is has a petroleum base, which has a tendency to swell rubber boots.

It is critical to wire wheel the portion of the caliper bracket that the clips sit. In areas with lots of snow and salt, rust tends to grow on the metal surface and causes the pads to lock into place. It may be a good idea to apply a light film of Molykote M77 (available from Honda) to the metal surface before reinstalling the clip. I also put a very light film of M77 on the pad "ears" so that the pads slide better.

Hyundai also describes these practices for brake service in their TSB:

http://www.procutinternational.com/pdf/OEM_Hyundai_10-BR-001.pdf

[kcg795]

So far, from what I can tell from driving it, the brakes seem to be working pretty good. I'm just hoping I got all the air out of the system. The brakes have never had a touchy feeling to them anyway like most new cars today have. They're slowly starting to feel more firm as I drive it though.

[timsrv]

Silicone paste is the best product for slide pins. It seems to last the longest, and GM/Ford both specify it in their service manuals. There are a number of internet rumors saying that the Permatex synthetic and ceramic lubes dry out quickly, but I've never seen this myself.

I use either Motorcraft XG-3-A or 3M #08946. Anti-seize compound should not be used since it is has a petroleum base, which has a tendency to swell rubber boots.

That's good to know. I've never had a problem with swelling boots, but I never put it on thick enough to make much contact with them anyhow. I'm still old school I guess. I'll have to pick up some of that silicone paste and start using that on my slide pins. I guess I could see a benefit to lubing the pad tabs IF you could make it stay there. It might last a couple weeks at best driving in the Washington rain. I always replace the fit kit when replacing pads & that gives the tabs a nice smooth surface to slide on. In regard to lubrication near brake surfaces, I was taught not enough lube is better than too much. Tim

[The Critic]

That's good to know. I've never had a problem with swelling boots, but I never put it on thick enough to make much contact with them anyhow. I'm still old school I guess. I'll have to pick up some of that silicone paste and start using that on my slide pins. I guess I could see a benefit to lubing the pad tabs IF you could make it stay there. It might last a couple weeks at best driving in the Washington rain. I always replace the fit kit when replacing pads & that gives the tabs a nice smooth surface to slide on. In regard to lubrication near brake surfaces, I was taught not enough lube is better than too much. Tim
I've done brake jobs on Hondas with 60k+ on the original pads, and the M77 paste was still on the shims. M77 is a "dry lube" and does not wash off easily. If you get some on your fingers, it imbeds itself into your skin and does not come off easily at all.

Replacing hardware is a good idea in theory, but in practice the Chinese hardware kits that are included tend to fit worse than the factory hardware. In many cases you are best off cleaning and re-using the factory hardware.

[timsrv]

I get pads, shim kits, & fit kits from Toyota. After being a Toyota tech, it's hard for me to purchase aftermarket stuff.........at least when it comes to these parts. For all I know Toyota could be buying from China, but I haven't had any issues with quality yet. Tim

[The Critic]

I get pads, shim kits, & fit kits from Toyota. After being a Toyota tech, it's hard for me to purchase aftermarket stuff.........at least when it comes to these parts. For all I know Toyota could be buying from China, but I haven't had any issues with quality yet. Tim
As they say, the quality of management is more important than the location.

[mahleek87]

My mechanic replaced my brake pads in November 2012. Now on the front left side they are completely gone.

He says the caliper is still good but I need to know what pins shims etc to get from toyota. (Since all the stuff I have now is aftermarket) For the past 3 years it has been and every single year I have to replace the pads because they wear out unevenly. Im sick and tired of it.

Tim can you supply the part numbers for these parts and let me know if they are the same for 85 and 86. My front left set up is an 85 set up. Front Right is original 86. I know the 85 has different rotors, and I believe calipers. The pads are the same.

I was reading online that its better to get your slider pins OEM. PLease let me know what I need to get.

Thanks.

[timsrv]

Mahleek,

When it comes to pads, shims, & fit kits I go Toyota. But for everything else brake related I've been pretty lucky with aftermarket (who can afford Toyota?). On average I replace calipers once every 3 or 4 sets of pads (unless I find something wrong sooner). Irregular wearing brake pads is an indication of binding slider pins. These can be disassembled & lubed, but I usually just replace with new aftermarket calipers. www.RockAuto.com is where I go. Just drill into their database using the prompts (year, make, model, etc) to direct you to the correct parts. Just be sure to apply a thin coat of antiseize compound or silicone paste to the pins upon assembly & make sure the protective boots over the pins are installed correctly. Good luck & have fun :wave1:. Tim

[mahleek87]

Hey Tim,

What about for Rotors? Do you go to Toyota for that? I went to my local advanced auto parts store and they said they tried their hardest and could not get 86 LE Front Rotors. These are still reliably available online through Rock Auto correct?

[timsrv]

Yeah, I get mine from rock auto. I try to get the cheapest (with shipping). This usually means the ones that ship from the same warehouse as the rest of my order. Tim

[spacecruisers]

Curse you photo bucket! :pissed:

I could really use this thread about now, doing this job myself.

From reading through it, its very well done so its a damn shame the pictures are broken!

[Wizardtom]

Curse you photo bucket! :pissed:

I could really use this thread about now, doing this job myself.

From reading through it, its very well done so its a damn shame the pictures are broken!

Totally agree. I could use it too.

QUESTION: I just got a new caliper and when I tried to screw in the brake hose as far down as I could there is still all this threading! https://imgur.com/a/DsGfk

Does this need to sit down all the way like it did, and does on the other side?
do I need a new line? Do I try to grind off the extra length of the bolt on my old line?

[timsrv]

Totally agree. I could use it too.

QUESTION: I just got a new caliper and when I tried to screw in the brake hose as far down as I could there is still all this threading! https://imgur.com/a/DsGfk

Does this need to sit down all the way like it did, and does on the other side?
do I need a new line? Do I try to grind off the extra length of the bolt on my old line?

The seal is on the tip of the brake line (inverted flare). There is a matching machined surface at the bottom of the threaded hole and that's where the seal is made (it's metal to metal, so don't use any Teflon tape or other type sealants).

So no, it does not necessarily need to thread to the same depth as the old (as referenced from the exterior). Just make sure it's tight, then after it's all together and you've bled the brakes, have your helper push hard on the brake pedal while you do a final leak test. Tim

[originalkwyjibo]

The bore on the caliper should have an inverted flare to correspond with the flare on the end of the hose fitting. When you tighten the hose, you are tightening the two opposing flares against one another. The hex portion of the hose fitting should NOT tighten against the body of the caliper.

EDIT: Nevermind. Tim beat me to it.

[Wizardtom]

The seal is on the tip of the brake line (inverted flare). There is a matching machined surface at the bottom of the threaded hole and that's where the seal is made (it's metal to metal, so don't use any Teflon tape or other type sealants).

So no, it does not necessarily need to thread to the same depth as the old (as referenced from the exterior). Just make sure it's tight, then after it's all together and you've bled the brakes, have your helper push hard on the brake pedal while you do a final leak test. Tim

Tim for the win. I think if you made a T-shirt with that TVT logo and Tim for the Win written on it I'd buy it for $15.

On that same note, I made a small $10 donation to the site and of course will continue to support it as long as I keep coming back. But in addition to that I think there should be an option to donate to specific comments. Soon the lightning network protocol will make bitcoin cheap to send once again but other crypto currencies are easy to use to tip. It would make sense to me to have a tipping address in signatures that uses a smart contract to deliver X% to each participant in a thread that helped and Y% to the site. I would love to tip directly for my education :)

[timsrv]

Lol, no contest here and no monetary motivations, just fellow van owners helping each other out. We (TVT) very much appreciate the donations as it helps pay the bills incurred by hosting, domain registries, software, etc. I wish I could spend more time here but business is booming and that takes priority.

BTW, Original pretty much said the same thing I did, so if nothing else, it's good confirmation (you know it's gotta be right if 2 different posts come in at the same time saying the same thing).

I also want to give a big THANK YOU to the more experienced members like Original, Burntboot, and others filling in for me as I'm rarely available to post anymore. Most of the time I'm late to the party and it's nice to find good advice has already been provided. Tim

[Vanarama]

Hey guys,

Rookie question here.

I replaced brake line hose, calipers, and pads on my 87 toyota van. Although, I haven't bled the brake line yet, I Noticed the rotor won't spin freely with everything installed. Should I be concerned about this.

I had a mechanic replace pads a few months ago and noticed that the passenger side brakes were getting pretty hot. Thought the calipers were sticking so I went with a full replacement. Now, the rotor is still stuck...I fear I have a different problem.

Thanks guys!

[Burntboot]

If you haven't even bled the brakes and you can't turn the rotor then YES, something is wrong.

Are the "new" callipers correct, are the pads installed correctly, did you clean and repack the bearings? how did the bearings look? Is it 2WD or 4WD?
Did you have any problem getting the calliper on? What are the rotors like (do they have a deep ridge that the pads could be hanging up on...)

Start by pulling the caliper off, if the rotor spins you know the issue is related to the calliper fitment, if not the calliper itself.
If it still won't spin with the calliper off, then the problems are deeper (rotor making contact or bearings over tight/burnt/seizing?)

For what its worth, this is exactly what happens when we make assumptions about the cause of a problem.
And to be fair, callipers do cause lots of problems so its an easy assumption to make, but bearings can cause all sorts of problem that, at least at first blush, can mimic seized callipers.
And don't get discouraged as even professionals who do this stuff all day long, can often fall into the same trap, assumptions are SO much easier to make and being in a hurry (flat rate), doesn't help matters at all.
That is why it is SO important to actually diagnose the issue before hand, it often seems like a waste of time but it in reality it is much kinder to the wallet in the long run
and always results in a better repair experience.

[Vanarama]

Thanks!
I ended up reinstalling the caliper but and added a washer to the slide pin before tightening down and it solved the issue. Simple fix...just took a whole day for me to solve. Now...is it normal to brakes to smell hot the first few drives...as they wear in?

Thanks again!


If you haven't even bled the brakes and you can't turn the rotor then YES, something is wrong.

Are the "new" callipers correct, are the pads installed correctly, did you clean and repack the bearings? how did the bearings look? Is it 2WD or 4WD?
Did you have any problem getting the calliper on? What are the rotors like (do they have a deep ridge that the pads could be hanging up on...)

Start by pulling the caliper off, if the rotor spins you know the issue is related to the calliper fitment, if not the calliper itself.
If it still won't spin with the calliper off, then the problems are deeper (rotor making contact or bearings over tight/burnt/seizing?)

For what its worth, this is exactly what happens when we make assumptions about the cause of a problem.
And to be fair, callipers do cause lots of problems so its an easy assumption to make, but bearings can cause all sorts of problem that, at least at first blush, can mimic seized callipers.
And don't get discouraged as even professionals who do this stuff all day long, can often fall into the same trap, assumptions are SO much easier to make and being in a hurry (flat rate), doesn't help matters at all.
That is why it is SO important to actually diagnose the issue before hand, it often seems like a waste of time but it in reality it is much kinder to the wallet in the long run
and always results in a better repair experience.

[Burntboot]

No, they shouldn't smell "hot" and there should be NO shims anywhere on the callipers.
The fact that you "solved" the issue with washers, only points to something else being wrong.

Did you inspect the bearings?

[Vanarama]

I haven't and I need to. I was hoping it was just the so-called "brake in period" of 500 miles. Drove it today about 40 miles and smell was almost gone. I need to figure this out soon as I've got a big out of state drive coming up. Thanks for you help!


No, they shouldn't smell "hot" and there should be NO shims anywhere on the callipers.
The fact that you "solved" the issue with washers, only points to something else being wrong.

Did you inspect the bearings?

[Burntboot]

Umm.
What kind pads did you install?
There is only one thing I can think of that would explain a break-in period and a dissipating hot smell.

Back in the "olden" days, pads were made with organic materials, there was indeed a smell and proper break-in procedures were required to avoid "glazing" the pads.

Sadly, these types of pads are still readily available as they are quite inexpensive.
It isn't always obvious, because "Organic" sounds SO much healthier than "Made with Asbestos"

Aside from the obvious health issues involved, those types of pads should not be used on a vehicle designed for metallic pads.
Reason being, stopping distance will be greatly increased, though the rotors will last forever.
Furthermore, the harder one brakes, the more heat is generated, if organic pads overheat, the term "brake fade" will no longer be a mystery to you.

Not sure if that is at play here, but worth being aware of, just in case.
BB

[Vanarama]

I went with a MONROE TOTALSOLUTION™ brake pads. Says ceramic. hmm:doh:



Umm.
What kind pads did you install?
There is only one thing I can think of that would explain a break-in period and a dissipating hot smell.

Back in the "olden" days, pads were made with organic materials, there was indeed a smell and proper break-in procedures were required to avoid "glazing" the pads.

Sadly, these types of pads are still readily available as they are quite inexpensive.
It isn't always obvious, because "Organic" sounds SO much healthier than "Made with Asbestos"

Aside from the obvious health issues involved, those types of pads should not be used on a vehicle designed for metallic pads.
Reason being, stopping distance will be greatly increased, though the rotors will last forever.
Furthermore, the harder one brakes, the more heat is generated, if organic pads overheat, the term "brake fade" will no longer be a mystery to you.

Not sure if that is at play here, but worth being aware of, just in case.
BB

[Burntboot]

Not familiar with that particular product, but being that they are ceramic, eliminates the asbestos argument.

[bubbagump1977]

I am having trouble locating driver side calipers for my 86 2wd. My question is this can I buy a passenger side and change the fittings for the bolt and slider? It appears like I should. I originally bought a seal rebuild kit but the piston had rust on the brake side of the channel. Or I can just pull the piston and use it on the original caliper. That would work If there is nothing wrong with the same area that the piston rusted.

[kcg795]

So yeah. Funny story. After replacing the calipers and the pads, I barely drove the Van at all and ended up calling a wrecker to come get it a couple years ago. I miss it, but had to move on. Ended up buying a brand new '21 Subaru Legacy.

[timsrv]

I am having trouble locating driver side calipers for my 86 2wd. My question is this can I buy a passenger side and change the fittings for the bolt and slider? It appears like I should. I originally bought a seal rebuild kit but the piston had rust on the brake side of the channel. Or I can just pull the piston and use it on the original caliper. That would work If there is nothing wrong with the same area that the piston rusted.

If I recall correctly, you can interchange 87 calipers onto 86 vans (I've switched these back and forth). The only difference is the connection to the flexible brake hose, so you'll need to also use the hose for an 87. The bracket on the other end of that hose (where it connects to the metal brake line) is also just a little different, so you may also need to slightly modify the hole where the end of the brake line goes through it. Tim

PS: You cannot swap left for right (they are a mirror image of each other) but I think you can swap the pistons.

[bubbagump1977]

If I recall correctly, you can interchange 87 calipers onto 86 vans (I've switched these back and forth). The only difference is the connection to the flexible brake hose, so you'll need to also use the hose for an 87. The bracket on the other end of that hose (where it connects to the metal brake line) is also just a little different, so you may also need to slightly modify the hole where the end of the brake line goes through it. Tim PS: You cannot swap left for right (they are a mirror image of each other) but I think you can swap the pistons. Thank You Timsrv. I have found your knowledge to be a great boon more than once.